🔗 Share this article

Athens

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches form the resplendent mix that is the Athens Riviera. Thus at the close of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a not unpleasant dilemma: where to go to soothe bones still aching for a last splash of warm weather. For Athens offers something that many continental destinations do not: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers featuring beaches many a Aegean isle would covet.

During the off-season, the coasts of Attica still have a powerful draw, as I discovered when swimming into a setting sun across the bay of Vouliagmeni. For those looking for revitalization in azure seas primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still clinging to my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a eatery whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the spectacular view of the bay it overlooks. In a nod to bygone eras, the appetizers is served on big platters.

The city is as celebrated for its elevations as its coastline: natural elevations within sight of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for strollers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a metropolis that extends across almost 200 square miles, these stone formations – bearers of fabulous names such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Muses' Hill – are a must-see.

In my view, this ancient capital is the continent's most spiritual and sublime.

If you climb the top of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the cable railway, the reward is a stunning view of the entire gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the historic Plaka neighborhood remains the ideal location. The old-school a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 B&B. In the same area, a popular restaurant is a preferred restaurant with locals and serves the most succulent lamb cutlets. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are highly evocative and perfect for mild fall nights – for a special experience visit a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred fine dining establishment.

Palermo

Believe Neapolitan margherita is the last word in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer Sicilian pizza, a tender, airy slice of dough topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and topped with caciocavallo cheese and herbs. Savory, satisfying and comforting, it’s available in bakeries, stands and stalls all over the city (Via Maqueda in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We sample it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. A local spot often has big lines, but they move quickly as young staff serve slices of sfincione, as well as arancini and panelle. There are a few tables under the shade outside, but we eat as we stroll into town along tight a street. This is a nice walk in October but wouldn’t be so in summer. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily topped 40C in the shadow. At the end of July one hot spot reached an unprecedented 158F at the surface.

We wander the city and savour how its long history is written in its streets.

Now, as temperatures rise to 24C by the afternoon, we can explore the city and savour how its long history is written in its roads. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance fountain, installed under colonial times; and the grand church, built on the site of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the origins of which also date back over a millennium. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still lively and brilliantly theatrical. Feeling brave, we stop for a traditional spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its mildly sugary “meat” balanced by grated cheese. The stallholder is particularly proud of his grilled goat’s intestines but, I’m sorry, no amount of salt and lemon can make those a treat for me.

We’re happy to head back to quieter La Kalsa, the former Arab quarter to the east, which was bombed in the second world war and declined for decades before being revitalized this era. Maison Butera (ocean-facing doubles from $175 with breakfast) is a four-room B&B with lots to see nearby. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a 17th-century baroque pile restored and relaunched in recently to display the Valsecchi art collection, which includes works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we walk a short distance to the city's Botanical Garden, with its record-breaking ancient tree. Birds are chirping loudly as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in the UK, the time will change and the cold season will start. We enjoy a final days in the light.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the close of the warm season and spending time at beach bars and swimming areas on the tributaries of the Danube, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a city of parks and manicured gardens, grassy areas and forest zones, which swap their green canopy for a golden and ochre glow the locals call Goldener Herbst.

I leave behind the grandiose architecture and old streets of the historic centre. To the southwest of it, a famous park extends from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gold isn’t limited for the inside, and makes its way into pathways of tall copper bushes and arched tree terraces that lead to the butter-yellow palace.

To the east, in the city’s a large park, I stroll beneath the shady trees of the Hauptallee, an path that’s almost five kilometers long and centuries-old. On the border of the park, the vintage-designed Superbude Prater hotel (rooms from $85 with breakfast) is a ideally located getaway.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting parks and building community spirit), the fall brings a abundance of seasonal ingredients on menus. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best devoured in a wood-panelled Beisl such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

Vienna is a place of green areas and gardens that swap their emerald halo for a golden and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the only continental city to grow vintage within its city limits, with 700 hectares of vineyards. There are fourteen official urban paths, known as walking routes. Route one takes you through the vintner lands of a district. Settle in a slope Heuriger such as Wieninger am Nussberg, sipping a zesty white wine with a platter (an assortment of sliced meats and cheese), while enjoying the sublime city vista.

The days are getting shorter, but now is the perfect time to wander among Vienna’s grand buildings, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|